Onward and Undertow: may 2026
This independent study collection explores the profound psychological duality of the mid-century sailor, specifically the historical reality of teenagers as young as 18 who had their youth abruptly stripped away, forced to transition instantly from innocence to conflict. Bound by a disciplined naval palette of deep navy blue, stark white, and jet black, the collection uses textile engineering to map this internal friction. The naval uniform historically symbolized both the romanticized ideal of freedom and the rigid reality of institutional duty. By counterbalancing vertical tension against dramatic, sweeping horizontal volume, these garments investigate how flat fabric can be manipulated to express emotional weight, structural confinement, and resilience.
Featured on the Iowa State Fashion Show runway, Onward captures the youthful momentum and expansive optimism of the sailor setting out to sea. The ensemble utilizes a cream hand crocheted naval-style cap and a fitted, button-front black bodice that anchors the look, juxtaposed against an avant-garde interpretation of the iconic wide-leg sailor trouser.
The design subverts the traditional Breton stripe. Rather than using a flat print, the alternating black and white bands are achieved through gathered, stacked fabric tiers. This horizontal volume-building technique gives the garment an architectural silhouette, replacing a simple pattern with physical dimension.
Under the stage lights, the deep valleys and raised peaks of the manipulated fabric create a shifting play of light and shadow. The trousers truly come alive in motion, moving with a sweeping, fluid rhythm that evokes the vastness of the ocean and the forward drive of a journey begun.
In direct contrast to the expansive motion of the runway look, Undertow represents the sudden, hidden current pulling the individual away from youth. It addresses the loss of innocence, where the body is physically and emotionally compressed by duty. The look is framed by a structural, wide cream square bib collar finished with custom red embroidery declaring, "Too Tough to Die" as a defiant nod to vintage military tattoo vernacular and survival.
To convey this sense of bracing for conflict, the deep navy dress is meticulously crafted from stretch French terry. The bodice showcases highly controlled, uniform pintucking running down the entire torso. Gaining structure from the knit's loops, this dense manipulation pulls the textile taut to mimic the supportive armor of military dress uniforms, leading to a precise, elegant row of button closures down the spine.
Every angle reinforces the maritime narrative, from the tailored button back to the continuous braided rope trim that traces the edge of the collar. At the dropped waist, the tightly engineered tension of the pintucks effortlessly releases into a fluid, unmanipulated maxi skirt, highlighting the French terry's natural, heavy drape. This sudden release serves as a powerful material metaphor: a quiet reminder of the inherent desire for freedom that remains beneath the heavy burden of duty.
Scarlet: May 2026
Seeing the completed physical garments outside of the digital space was an unforgettable moment. The heavy Mikado fabric held its dramatic shape beautifully, standing side by side with the precise lines of the Sovereign outfit to tell a cohesive story. To bring everything full circle, I styled the looks and compiled the entire journey into a cinematic video presentation. Watching the garments move through the lens, showcasing the rich texture and theatrical energy we envisioned from the very beginning, felt like witnessing a digital ghost finally become entirely human. Read More
Draping: Spring 2025
Developed during the spring 2025 semester for a draping project, Lessons in Geometry explores the subversion of institutional uniformity. The look targets the classic, rigid archetypes of school uniforms and traditional tailoring, filtering them through a rebellious, avant-garde lens.
Developed as a spring semester draping project, Lessons in Geometry explores the visceral subversion of institutional uniformity. The look directly targets the rigid archetypes of school uniforms and traditional tailoring, filtering them through a rebellious, anti-establishment lens. By deconstructing the classic "schoolgirl" aesthetic, the garment strips it of its forced conformity, transforming standard academic attire into a vehicle for sharp individual defiance.
The standout top is meticulously crafted from 100% tartan wool. Rather than relying on standard flat-patterning, the piece was built entirely through precision draping, intentionally warping and biasing the geometric lines of the plaid pattern. By shifting the textile off-grain, the strict, mathematical grid of the tartan is manipulated into fluid, asymmetric folds that physically distort the concept of traditional structure.
Heavily inspired by the iconic, safety-pinned punk tailoring of Vivienne Westwood and the institutional critique of Pink Floyd’s Another Brick in the Wall, this look captures a raw, counterculture attitude. It turns structural geometry into a literal act of rebellion, proving that even within a rigid system, shape, pattern, and form can be bent to the wearer’s will.
